This is a fairly simple job and shouldn't take more than an hour or two.

Remove the old door.

First job is to unscrew the old door first, removing the screws from the bottom hinge before the top hinge.
Make sure the door is well supported when the last screw is taken out of the top hinge then remove the old door out of the way.

Cutting the new door to size.

Offer the new door up, if it needs trimmed make sure you take an equal amount of wood from both the top and the bottom of the door to keep it in balance.
If the new door is to wide only take cuts from the hinge side.
Use a panel saw if you need to take more than 6mm off the height of the new door, then sand it smooth. If you need to trim off less than 6mm, use a hand or power plane.
Ideally, there should be a 2mm gap on either side and at the top, between the door and the frame, when the door is in place, a 2 pence piece is a good gauge for this.
Allow 5-10mm at the bottom of the door if you have a thick carpet.

Fix door hinges to door frame.

try and match your new hinges with the old ones on the frame. If they don't, rest the new ones on the bottom of the existing hinge recess on the frame and mark along the top of the new hinge. Cut out the excess wood if any with a chisel and mallet. Checking the hinge sits comfortably and flush to the door frame. Screw each hinge to the door frame with a single screw and open the hinges.
The hinge pivot edges should stick out from the frame edge.
Now prop the door in the door frame, resting it on wedges so there's the correct gap at the bottom. With a pencil, mark where the top and the bottom of the hinges sit on the door.

Fixing the hinges on the door.

Lay the hinges on the edge of the door, making sure they're lined up with your pencil marks. Draw around the hinge flaps. Use a straight edge to mark the width of the hinge onto the door.
With a chisel and mallet, tap around the outline of the hinge shapes. Mak sure the 'bevel' (sloped edge) of the chisel is facing towards the waste wood. Make a series of cuts across the wood at 5mm intervals to the same depth as the flap. Check the hinges fit flush and fix with screws.

Hang the new door.

With the door supported on wedges and at right angles to the frame, fix the hinge flaps to the door frame.
Use only one screw so you can make any adjustments if needed . Check the door opens and closes easily. If it does, you're ready to fix the rest of the screws.

Fixing the door furniture.

First, fit the latch. The latch is usually set into the middle of the side of the door about 1m from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the latch plate.
Mark this on the edge of the door. Hold the latch in place in the centre of the edge of the door. Draw around it with a pencil to mark its position on the door. Choose a flat wood cutting drill bit that's slightly bigger than your latch so there's enough room to fit the latch in the hole.
To measure the depth of the latch hole, hold the latch against the drill bit. I use masking tape to mark the depth of the latch on the bit. Wedge the door open and drill the hole into the side of the door to this depth then insert the latch.
Make sure it's level and mark around its position. With a chisel, make a series of cuts on the edges of your pencil outline. Then chisel out the rest of the recess.
Check the fit to see if the latch plate lies flush with the door.

Making a hole for the spindle. Take the latch out and hold it in position on the outside of the door next to the hole made for it. Put your pencil through the hole in the latch and make a mark. This is where the handle spindle will go.
Mark this on both sides of the door.Choose a drill bit 2mm wider than the spindle and start drilling. When the drill bit begins to emerge through the other side of the door, start drilling from that side to stop the wood splitting.
When you've finished drilling, remove any debris from the hole. Slide the latch back into the door. Place the spindle into its hole and then screw the latch into place.
Place a handle onto the spindle. Use one hand to hold the handle in place. With the other, drill in the screws for the back plate. Give the handle a quick test. Repeat the process on the other side of the door for the other handle.

Fixing the latch plate on the door frame. The latch plate is the piece of metal that slots into the door frame.
Close the door so the latch touches the frame. Mark its position on the door frame. This gives you the height of the latch plate. To find the horizontal position of the latch plate, measure the distance between the edge of the latch and the edge of the door. Transfer this measurement to the door frame and mark with a pencil at the height you marked. Draw in and around the latch plate. Following your marks, chisel out the recess for the latch plate so it fits flush with the door frame. Screw the latch plate onto the frame.

The new door is now ready for stain or painting.

Laying purpose-grown turf will enable you to enjoy a fine lawn of instant beauty and maturity without the inconvenience or delays associated with seeding.

Preparing the ground.

Proper ground preparation is essential for the establishment and future well-being of your new lawn. Take your time doing this, a well prepared ground will produce eye pleasing results for years to come.
If the area has old turf this should be removed by slicing beneath the grass with a spade or a turfing spade. For larger areas, consider hiring in a purpose-designed turf cutter.
The soil needs to be turned over thoroughly to a depth of about 15cm using a spade or a powered cultivator / Rotavator.
Take a bit time to clear the area of stones, weeds, old turf and other debris.
Now with a large landscaping rake, start levelling the area. This will break the soil up to a fine tilth. Keep raking until you are pleased with the level of the bed removing and rubbish as you go.
A good tip is to stand well back from your prepared area and crouch down, check the level by eye. Do this from different angles and you will eventually have a pleasing level.

Laying the turf.

Never ever walk directly on the prepared soil or newly-laid turf unless you are wearing snow shoes. This will leave indentations that will haunt you for ever.
Use boards or planks to work from and walk on.
Start by unrolling one strip of turf around the perimeter of the lawn. Avoid using small pieces at the edges as these can dry out and perish. Ensure that the underside of the new turf has full contact with the soil below.
Lay the next strip across the longest straight run and continue to work across the lawn, strip by strip, producing a pattern similar to brickwork.
Butt joining edges and ends against each other, but avoid stretching the turf.
Overlapping pieces and ends of rows should be cut off neatly with a sharp knife or half-moon lawn edger.
Continue laying until the new lawn is complete.

In the summer months if the weather is hot dry and windy, water will be needed and lots of it. Newly-laid turf should be watered thoroughly within half an hour of installation.
This watering should be repeated at least once a day until the roots are established. A good tip is to try and lift a corner after say a week or so and see if there is any roots growing.
As a guide, at least two hours per day of constant watering is essential across the complete lawn area. The hotter, drier and windier the weather, the more water will be needed. However if the weather is forecast rain there will be no need for watering.
The turf will shrink slightly, this is normal. But if the new turf is looking like it has any sign of drying out e.g. gaps, lifting, browning or curling. Give it a good drink.

This is just a general how to on laying paving slabs. There are many different techniques in doing this and every work site throws up a different challenge. This technique is suitable for paths and small patio's that are not taking any cars etc.

Preparing the site.

Firstly you should plan out your area and remove any weeds or debris from the area. When digging out the site include a fall to ensure water will drain away. Also take into account the thickness of the paving, sub base and bedding layer to ascertain how deep you need to dig out. Remember that if you are laying paving up to a building then your finished top level needs to be at least 150mm below the DPC. (damp proof course) or leave a 100mm gap between the building and slabs, this should be filled with chips.

Bedding Layer.

The bedding layer is the material that holds and supports the paving slabs. The Bedding material is a coarse grit sand mixed with dry cement to the right level which will leave the stones flat and level. 
This can be either a wet or dry mix.  

Laying.

Before laying the slabs spread out an area of bedding mix and compact it down. Take care to check the thickness of the slab to be laid and level the mix accordingly. Use a trowel to slightly ripple the mix this will allow the stone to bed down. Now it's time to lay the slabs. Smaller ones can be lifted into place but larger stones should be carefully tipped from an already paved or solid place. Use a maul or an elephant's foot (a big, rubber-headed hammer) to help you a level the slabs taking care not to hit the slabs to hard. When you're satisfied, stand on the flag and check that it doesn't rock around, that the bed is good and the stone is flush with the surrounding stones. If the stone is too high or low, you'll need to lift it, add or remove some bedding, and start all over again.

Jointing and pointing.

As you start to lay the slabs in place decide if you would like gap to be pointed or simply butt joint each slab against each other.

Pointing the slabs is more time consuming but can achieve longer lasting results that stop weeds finding there way in to the small gaps between each slab.. Mortar is mixed so it is just damp, you then start to trowel into the joints. I use two trowels for this, one large for holding the pointing mortar and a smaller one for feeding it into the joints. This will also help minimise any staining on the edges of the paving slabs. The mortar will need to be pressed down into the joint and then finished with a jointing trowel.